I'm in Germany at the moment, but I'm behind and I want to write about my trip to Mexico, if only so I can remember it all. Besides, it was fun.
You can follow along in my photo albums here, if that's your thing:
Mexico City, mainly.Acapulco, mainly.So me and Yummy Udon booked a trip to Mexico City and Acapulco over her spring break and immediately the hysterics began. My mom was convinced I was going to get killed. So was Showell, for that matter. And I started to get a bit leery myself.
I mean you hear about Mexico being a war zone and all - I'd read an article about the Mexico/US border that talked about like 700 people being killed in six months, and immediately upon my return from the country did I read the US State Department's alert advising people not to go.
Well, whatever. For all of the hype and hysterics, I felt pretty safe. And we didn't exactly linger in tourist-friendly areas, either. Anyway, over the week or so that I was in Mexico fully eleven people were shot in Vancouver. Gang wars and such. So it was probably a safer choice to leave.
Right, so having spent my recovery time post-Australia/post-Tunica playing online poker and getting no sleep, I slept from 8pm to 1 am the night before my flight and then drove to the airport at about 3 in the morning.
Caught an Alaska Airlines flight to LA, ate Burger King for breakfast (ugh) and caught another Alaska flight to Mexico City.
Incidentally, I cashed out 35k in Alaska Airmiles for the trip, which was sweet, and despite having a somewhat hellacious return itinerary (MEX-Atlanta-Seattle-Vancouver), I got window seats the whole way and was treated like a normal passenger, as opposed to someone riding for free. And 35k miles is really not that much for a return flight from Vancouver to Mexico City. So bravo, Alaska!
Anyway, landed in Mexico City, cleared customs, and YU was nowhere to be found. She was supposed to meet me after arriving from Toronto a couple hours earlier, but she wasn't at the arrivals area.
Compounding the matter, she'd messaged me beforehand to tell me she wasn't bringing her cell phone and that I should contact her via email if things didn't work out. Except I didn't bring my computer.
Panic. Not really; she was waiting a few hundred feet down the way at another arrivals lounge, having panicked herself all afternoon. But we found each other and the panic subsided and thus set about trying to get to our accommodations.
It should be noted that my Spanish is so minimal as to be non-existent and I was planning to follow the boorish North American travel strategy of shrugging, smiling, and speaking slowly in my native tongue until someone came along who could understand me. Also there would be hand gestures.
It quickly became apparent, as soon as we jumped in the cab, that this would not fly. The taxi driver spoke no English. Neither did most of the people we would encounter. Thankfully, YU speaks passable Spanish and we were able to get to the general vicinity of our BnB before the cab driver had to stop for a second time to ask for directions.
Eventually we found the place, an apartment called "Chillout Flats" just a couple blocks from the Zocalo (like the major square w/National Palace, cathedral, touristy stuff and museums etc) and a block from the subway.
The place was great and fit the name. Cost like $60 a night for a king bed, private bath, breakfast in the morning, internet, balcony, etc etc and the location was unbeatable. There were bocoo mosquitos, but I think that was pretty common all over Mexico City.
So we kind of explored the city on our first night, wandering around these night markets as I got used to saying "no, gracias" and being stared at, because there were tons of people hawking tons of shit and not many touristy-looking folk. But that was kind of cool.
We had Mexican food for dinner (lawl) and wandered around the downtown area a bit more before calling it a night.
It must be said that Yummy Udon and I are kind of different people as far as traveling goes. For one, I'm a spoiled brat who travels mainly for business and thus expects working showers, comfy beds, solicitous staff and basically everything to go my way.
YU has been to India, Cuba and Southeast Asia and is a lot more attuned to the hostel existence. She brought a hiker's backpack to Mexico. I brought a suitcase with rollers.
Also, when I have a day off I'll usually sleep until 10 (at the earliest) leave the hotel by noon and maybe wander around for a few hours before coming back by nightfall, watching a movie and eating room service.
She is like the female Ryan Lucchesi. We were up at like 8ish every morning (even though I tried to tell her that meant 6am my time and 9am her time, and for some reason, my sleep pattern was effed - sleep at 10 pm, wake up at 2am, toss, turn, go back to sleep at 5am, wake up groggy as hell at 8) raring to go.
Which as it turned out, was a good thing, since we were on vacation and actually there to see stuff. And see stuff we did. After a nice home-cooked breakfast we hopped on the subway (crowded, hot, filled with ppl selling CDs, Mentos, etc - but cost $0.20 per trip!) and high-tailed it across town to Frida Kahlo's house.
The place was in a beautiful neighborhood filled with pastel-colored houses, plenty of trees and, like the rest of the city, a ton of Volkswagen bugs. It was hot and sunny and wonderful.
The museum was pretty cool as well. It was the house in which Kahlo and Diego Riviera lived and was obviously filled with all sorts of artwork and artifacts and stuff. It was a beautiful rambling blue house with a wonderful courtyard/garden and was a pretty relaxing way to start the day.
Trotsky's house was nearby, so we ambled back out through the neighborhood until we came to a gigantic wall with a grafitti'd Trotsky face on it. This was the place. I didn't know much about the man, but thankfully YU did and was able to fill me in before we wandered his grounds, which were only a few blocks from Frida's but light-years away as far as atmosphere.
The place had been converted from a house into a fortress, with most of the windows boarded up, the walls reinforced and machine gun turrets installed. Plus like bomb-proof doors and the like. Bullet holes in the bedroom - and Trotsky's grave outside, testament to the fact that for all of the effort, an assassin was still able to get in at the end.
So we saw what there was to see and then hopped back on the subway (after YU stopped for a bit of fresh pineapple from a streetside vendor) and headed back up to the Zocalo, its vast square teeming with throngs of people, the air hazy and hot and smoggy and reverberating with the feverish drumming from a group of native dancers who despite the heat seemed to never once stop moving from dawn until dusk.
This is what I had envisioned when I thought about Mexico - massive old buildings, crowds of people, the smoggy air and those frenetic drums, pounding the near chaotic atmosphere of the Zocalo into your skull as you navigate the grimy sidewalks. It was like nothing I'd ever seen and presents a pretty vivid, vibrant memory.
The Zocalo is basically the tourist mecca and filled with the stuff you *have* to see in Mexico, so we did it, checking out the cathedral and some incredible street performers before wandering for about an hour and a half in search of food, of which there was a remarkably limited supply.
But we found some and then checked out the National Palace, just barely getting inside after showing IDs barely more legitimate than Costco membership cards.
The National Palace is the seat of the government and everything that entails, and is thus a massive, overwhelming and architecturally significant compound that nonetheless features a collection of massive, subversive Diego Rivera murals depicting Mexican history and holding little back in dealing with the subjugation of the country's aboriginal groups.
We wandered around the National Palace for a bit more and then headed over to the ancient temple, which was uncovered just a few hundred feet from the cathedral and sits partially uncovered and attached to a museum.
So we checked it out, taking note at the altar for human sacrifice, the collection of carved skulls and the painted living quarters before ducking into the museum for some air conditioning and a few static displays before it all shut down at 5pm.
After the museum closed we headed back down to the apartment, where the sun was beginning to set and we took a bit of a siesta as the light waned and the noise of the city began to dissipate.
Then at dusk we were up and out again, wandering the streets in search of dinner and deciding on a sort of Mexican Denny's, where our waitress didn't really understand YU's Spanish and had to bring along another woman to help out. Anyways the food was decent, even if the atmosphere was a bit plastic.
So we went back to the apartment and had an early night.
Woke up early the next morning and caught the subway to the northern bus station, which was probably the largest bus station I've ever seen and featured about a hundred bus companies going to a hundred locales.
We were headed to Teotihuacan, the pyramids about an hour outside of town. Before we could get on the bus, though, breakfast was sitting a bit rough in our stomachs and thus was I subjected to a perfect example of why I generally prefer five-star travel: the bus station washroom.
I've never paid for the privilege of using the washroom before, but scrounged 3 pesos and paid the toll. For whatever reason you have to select your toilet paper before you go into the bathroom, so got that done too.
Anyways in the bathroom were like five doors, none of which locked and all of which were filled with Mexican men reading paperback novels. I waited for one to get a break in the action and vacate his stall and then entered.
The toilet water was a foul green color. There was no seat on the device. And the most stressful part (for me at least) of all Mexican toilets - you don't flush your toilet paper, you throw it (haphazardly, apparently) into a trash bin beside the cistern.
So with Montezuma's Revenge looming large in my rearview mirror I made do with the situation and high-tailed it out of there, feeling dirty as I joined YU on the bus and we headed out into the countryside.
The pyramids sit amongst sun-scorched grass in an awe-inspiring complex of stone ruins and people trying to sell you whistles that make monster noises. I worked on my "No, gracias" as we navigated the grounds, clambering over the ruins on the Street of the Dead and trying to envision the people who'd preceded us hundreds of years beforehand.
The Pyramid of the Sun, which we chose to climb, is the third-highest pyramid in the world, and I dunno if it's because of the heat, the altitude, the smoggy air or the fact that I'm a fat bastard, but I nearly embarrassed myself on the climb up.
I mean it was steep and HOT but still. Maybe I need to get in better shape. Anyways, we climbed to the top, which was an achievement and surveyed the landscape before deciding that we really didn't need to climb the nearby Pyramid of the Moon as well.
So we headed back along the Street of the Dead, bought a cool drink and caught the bus back into the city, just in time for lunch.
YU, with help from her Lonely Planet photocopies, directed us to a lovely district that I would never be able to find again in my life. I think it's the gay district. Anyways it was great - cool, tree-lined, filled with interesting-looking bars, restaurants, and Starbucks franchises.
We walked for a bit before grabbing lunch at a nice little restaurant, with YU ordering, I think, one rather small cheese quesadilla and me ordering, um, five pieces of barbecued chicken. Spanish still needed a bit of work.
I labored through the chicken as best I could and then we set off again, wandering through the neighborhood (which turned into a Little Korea) before arriving at a famous park that closed, apparently, at 5pm. It was 4:55. So we hurried through the park, through another market, into another artsy neighborhood.
It was fun. My cynicism comes across a lot better than my earnest enjoyment of the experiences, but I did enjoy them. The evening air was calm, the neighborhoods were beautiful, and these were places the likes of which I'd never experienced before and would generally never look to experience.
Eventually we got back on the subway and headed back to the apartment, where after a bit of a break we headed out into the streets once more and experienced the pandemonium that is Valentine's Day in Mexico City.
All we wanted was a bit of ice cream, but the streets were jam-packed with people as we headed out and so, after we found our dessert, we wandered around to see what all the fuss was about.
They'd set up a concert stage in the middle of the Zocalo and though we were still three or four city blocks away, the streets were all closed and the crowds were huge. Throngs of people clutching octopus balloons, stuffed animals and ice cream cones, selling quesadillas and tacos and beer. The singer in the distance on a massive screen, an old man singing "Besame Mucho", which would become the unofficial anthem for the trip.
We pushed through the crush for a while, trying to get close to the stage, before deciding better of it and heading back in search of a Valentine's Day souvenir for YU. But we couldn't find anything, anywhere, and eventually the streets began to empty and we were forced back to the apartment (conveniently located in the middle of the madness) in defeat. But we did get a couple of Valentine's Day candy lollipops that I don't suppose we'll ever eat.
***
Thus ended the Mexico City part of the adventure. The next day, we woke up, packed, checked out of the apartment and hopped the subway en route to the southern bus station, which was barely smaller than the northern alternative.
We haggled over bus prices for a bit before buying tickets to Acapulco (about fifteen companies leave every fifteen-twenty minutes or so), grabbing a bite to eat, negotiating the washroom experience once more and then hopping on the bus to the coast, about five hours to the southwest.
The bus itself was marvelous. They give you a free drink when you board and the seats are quite comfortable. And they play movies, although unlike on Greyhound the sound is just piped in so the whole bus can hear.
Anyway, as the couple beside us made slow, passionate love for the duration of the trip, we settled in and with Transformers, Garfield and some Richard Gere/Terrence Howard movie playing over the top, watched the scenery transform.
Embarrassing note: until about the second day in Acapulco I thought it was on the Atlantic side of the country. So I figured we were going east the whole time. We weren't.
We arrived into Acapulco in the mid-afternoon and caught a cab to our hotel, the Hotel Caleta in Acapulco, which was pretty well the best-case scenario.
Acapulco, we soon discovered, has a pretty raunchy tourist strip along the main drag, featuring among other things, Hooters, Hagen-Daz and the Hard-Rock Cafe, as well as plenty of all-inclusive pleasure palaces seemingly built to exploit lazy young Americans looking to get drunk and screw.
We were, literally and figuratively, almost the farthest you could possibly get from that scene. Our hotel was out on a peninsula about 20 mins from bacchanalia, surrounded on 3 sides by water and more or less ignored by anyone who didn't speak Spanish as a first language.
It was a massive edifice, tall and white and jutting proudly out over the ocean, an impressive site - and yet, cheap and nearly empty. We paid, I think, $120 for three nights, for a double bedroom with an amazing view from the balcony, two pools and a private beach.
The hotel gave off the impression of being a grand old dame from the 60s, a hotel that had thrived in a bygone era and was now in the midst of a slow decline into respectable shabbiness. There was a stairwell just outside our door that was literally filled with sand, and the remains of a former disco and an erstwhile hair salons elsewhere in the building.
But oh, was it wonderful. Within minutes of our arrival, we were descending the stairway to the private beach and basking in the wonderful warm Pacific water, counting our blessings and feeling like the luckiest people in the world.
We had a couple of Coronas by the pool and then headed down into the village, where we had an excellent meal at a beachside restaurant and then sat on the inner beach watching children play in the sand as the darkness settled in and just off the shore, an armada of tourist boats bobbed silently at anchor. Paradise.
The next day we woke up, had a wonderful breakfast at the same restaurant and caught one of the tourist boats for a trip over to an island which apparently featured a couple of nice beaches. It was a glass-bottomed boat, and on the way over we got a tour of an underwater Virgin Mary, which was interesting but nothing compared to what we hoped to find on the island, namely an empty beach with big waves.
We wandered the island trails, finding the beach recommended by the Lonely Planet to be roughly the size of a New York City apartment, and rocky and crowded (two other people) besides. So we headed back to the main beach, which featured no waves and a few jellyfish but also cheap snorkling and rather weak Pina Coladas.
The snorkling, though, was amazing - we spent a good hour or so being battered by the surf just off the beach, watching the underwater ecosystem in action all around us. It was fairly spectacular and $10/per well spent.
Spent a couple hours relaxing on the beach and then caught the tourist boat back to the hotel, where we jumped in the freshwater pool for a bit more relaxation and then got ready for dinner.
Dinner was at this place overlooking these cliffs where these people were jumping. It's apparently famous.
Alright, it's deservedly famous and I just can't remember the details, but suffice it to say for $13 and a guaranteed $25 bar tab we were able to watch a collection of young Mexican men scale an incredible cliff and then do crazy dives off of it once an hour.
Plus we got tipsy on margaritas. Honestly it was pretty spectacular, even though the food was more or less abominable. We watched two of these cliff-diving shows, the second one with fire! and then called it a night - with brief pause for a battle with a cabbie who was trying to overcharge us.
The next day we caught a crazy cheap bus to the zocalo, where we kind of walked around the historic architecture for a bit and then caught breakfast in an outdoor cafe - these outdoor breakfasts were among the highlights of the trip.
These buses were also a highlight. Basically schoolbuses, they were gaily painted, often with like Christian imagery - and hella cheap and blaring music and stopped wherever you needed them to stop. So we rode another of these crazy buses down the strip to the opposite end of the shore and after some looking, found a stretch of beach we liked.
It was another great day. We rented a deck chair and an umbrella and just hung out on the sand all day, swimming, not swimming, reading, sleeping, eating, drinking and, in Yummy Udon's case, caving to the pressure and getting a ten-minute body massage from a very persistent itinerant masseuse.
I also got very burnt. This is because I was dumb, and didn't re-apply sunscreen and then sat half in the sun for the entire day, meaning my right side was burnt as hell and my left side cool as a cucumber. Tough life.
We packed it in as the sun set and went looking for a place to eat, and we wandered about halfway down the strip before we found a nice-looking place with vegetarian food for YU.
It was overlooking the beach and the sunset and the view was amazing. Equally amazing was the old mariachi who came up and gave us his best "Besame Mucho" as we ate. Also, YU bought a kite from a vendor on the beach. It was a good meal.
We ate Hagen Daz afterwards, then caught the bus back to the spot and hit the sack. You know how we do.
Anyways the next day was another travel day. We caught a cramped VW bug taxi to the bus station, which turned out to be the wrong bus station in another of those charming failures to communicate that seem utterly infuriating at the time.
We got to the right bus station and they didn't take credit cards, which was downright annoying, but there was a cash machine nearby so eventually it all sorted itself out and we were on the bus back up to Mexico City.
The ride seemed quicker, there were no couples copulating beside us, although there was a carfire on the side of the road that stopped our progress for about ten minutes.
Eventually we got back to MC (no word on whether the car was extinguished or not), rode the subway back to the Chillout Flat, got re-situated and had a decent dinner - I lived on enchiladas, quesadillas and tacos all week - and then headed back to hit the sack for the final time in Mexico.
The next morning was something of a lesson in logistics. We were headed to the airport and decided to take the subway, which turned out to be a pretty involved process that saw us on four different subway lines before we arrived at the station, which featured very little in the way of signs to point us where to go.
So we wandered around for a bit, having given ourselves far less time than would have been optimal, and eventually made it to the terminal with about two hours to go before my flight was due to take off - YU's was set for later in the day.
K, two hours is probably ample time, but for international flights there's a cut-off and given that I had to be at work in LA the next day I really didn't want to mess about.
Turned out it was the wrong terminal. And the monorail was broken. So we dashed through the terminal and caught the bus to the right building, which was fifteen miles away on a donkey path that our driver dared not take at more than 5 kph.
Eventually we made it, my blood pressure boiling. Got to the Delta counter and there were still plenty of people hanging around. We had like an hour and a half, the terminal was cool and spacious and after we got checked in, security was a breeze.
For whatever reason though, the flight was boarding an hour early so after picking up a prepackaged meal and a Gatorade (that was promptly confiscated by the post-boarding security), I said goodbye to YU and got onboard my flight while she waited out the 1.5 hrs before her flight back up to Toronto.
My itinerary took me to Vancouver via Atlanta and Seattle, and though I liked the Atlanta airport more this time than before, I was still pretty pissed at it b/c due to the ridiculousness of Terminal T, I had to go through security two more times, thus effing with my layover window and preventing me from having a decent meal. Plus I almost had to buy a James Patterson novel but escaped with Cormac McCarthy instead.
Anyway the flights were relatively uneventful. I had that decent meal in Seattle instead of Atlanta and the waitress chatted me up about my job, which was fairly humanizing on a long travel day. And I was exhausted.
My final flight left Seattle at like 11 and I got into Vancouver at midnight-ish on my birthday, clearing Customs at like 12:05 in my first official act as a 26-year-old.
I got my car out of valet, gassed her up outside the airport and bombed it back to Coquitlam, where I dumped luggage, slept for seven hours and got up and went back to the airport again to fly down to LA, where I spent my birthday in a hotel room in Commerce, cold and *sob* alone.
Anyway that's the story. If you've made it this far, I fear for you.
But Mexico was pretty incredible. I kind of enjoyed being out of my comfort zone and I certainly enjoyed spending the time with YU. Plus the beach time was spectacular, so it was a pretty good birthday/spring break present.
At the moment, I've just returned from Germany, so I'll write about that in a few days and it will be both shorter and more interesting than this travelogue, which I think serves mainly as a memory-catcher for me.
Besame Mucho!